Much Ado About Stuffing

Thanksgiving and the fastest wine on Earth

Top o’ the morning.

Big news for wine nerds: don’t call it a comeback but Rudy’s back. This time using his talents for
 good? Reminds me of “Catch Me If You Can” when Frank Abagnale starts to work with the FBI, except in this case Rudy’s cashing out his blending skills as a cool party trick for the rich. TBH I can’t say I wouldn’t enjoy blinding with him.

It’s that time of year where things start to get a bit intense. Holidays have started early for me, too, so while I will endeavor to publish weekly, I may need to less frequently. However, you can always keep up with what’s new on Instagram @thirdplacewine.

I am currently in the home stretch of prepping for an early Friendsgiving, this year’s theme is, “Much Ado About Stuffing”. The first-round magnum is in and hopefully the turkey will be ready when I show up to collect it. It’s a surprise every year: will it be the right size? What will it cost? Who knows? Who cares?! The butcher takes no deposit, just my phone number, then manages to make something happen. #Luxembourg

Meanwhile, Q4 has been a period of of reflection. About life, about the direction of TPW, about my theme of the year (“surrender”), and of course about the multitude of things that I’m grateful for.

As 2023 began, if you’re like me, you set some goals or intentions. As we enter the last months of the year, what is it that you have left to try? To try again? Progress isn’t always linear, and sometimes comes in fits and starts, but we have to at least begin. For moments when I get impatient or frustrated, I’ve found it helps to remember that direction > speed.

On that note, you’ll notice a few changes around here, which I’m going to keep tweaking over time. I’d be grateful for your feedback via the poll or reply anytime: [email protected].

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Beaujolais Day in Lyon. Photo: AFP

The Fastest Wine on Earth

The story of Beaujolais Nouveau is a tale of tradition, innovation, and a dash of French marketing flair. This young, “glou glou” wine, made from Beaujolais AOC and Beaujolais-Villages AOC (and not from the 10 Crus) has become increasingly popular abroad and particularly in the US due to the timing of its release (the 3rd Thursday of November) near Thanksgiving (the 4th Thursday of November) and its ability to pair with Thanksgiving dishes.

The tradition

The birthplace of Beaujolais Nouveau lies in the Beaujolais region, nestled within the heart of Burgundy, where the Gamay grape and carbonic maceration winemaking reign supreme. Although young Beaujolais wine has been consumed since the 1800s to celebrate the end of harvest (about 6-8 weeks after picking, not dissimilar to other vins de primeur such as FiederwĂ€issen in the heart of Europe), it wasn’t until 1937 when the Beaujolais AOC was established that time limits on when the new wine could be released were fixed.

Originally, Beaujolais could only be sold after 15 December of the same harvest year. Then in 1951 this was relaxed to after 15 November for what would become known as “Beaujolais Nouveau”. Finally, in 1985 the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO), the body that regulates appellations, set the third Thursday of November to allow a uniform release date.

The great race, and a greater marketer

Some members of the Union Interprofessionnelle des Vins du Beaujolais (UIVB) saw the opportunity to market the fast distribution of Beaujolais Nouveau, thus beginning a race to get the first bottles to Paris for “Beaujolais Day”, the third Thursday of November (this year on 16 November). The most famous figure among them was nĂ©gociant Georges Duboeuf (RIP).

In the 1950s, Duboeuf recognized the potential of Beaujolais Nouveau and set out to transform it from a local tradition into an international sensation. His efforts earned him the nickname "King of Beaujolais," as he played a pivotal role in popularizing the wine around the world.

Since the 1960s, English clubs got involved, rewarding drivers who managed to bring back wine the quickest. By the 1970s, Beaujolais Nouveau races became a national event. In the 1980s, other European countries got in on the action, then North America, then Asia in the 1990s. The logistics of shipping so much wine so quickly has led to the use of amusing means of transport, including: elephant, Concorde, balloon, rickshaw, helicopter, private jet, military jet, and 747.

Duboeuf was also famous for parties at his winery in RomanĂšche-Thorins on the night of the wine's release. Friends, local growers, and celebrities would arrive on a special train from Paris. At midnight everyone would go outside to see the delivery trucks leave the winery. Today, the biggest festival is Les Sarmentelles, in Beaujeu, taking place this year from 15 - 19 November.

À table

Today, Beaujolais Nouveau continues to be a beloved tradition, eagerly anticipated by wine enthusiasts around the globe. Its bright, fruit-forward profile and swift journey from vineyard to glass make it a symbol of celebration, even if some don’t care for the wine itself. Turning to Thanksgiving, some pairing ideas:

Roast turkey (obv)

Turkey is the MVP of Thanksgiving, and Beaujolais Nouveau’s bright acidity and fruity cherry and raspberry notes cut through the richness of the bird while complementing the cranberry sauce. Here is a recipe by Martha Stewart.

Mushroom and thyme stuffing

Beaujolais Nouveau has very soft tannins, along with its acidity it matches well with the earthy, umami goodness of mushrooms, creating a culinary bromance. It's like they were meant to be together, like Batman and Robin or peanut butter and jelly. Here is a recipe by Jamie Oliver.

Butternut squash risotto

Butternut squash risotto is like a warm, cozy blanket on a chilly autumn night. Beaujolais Nouveau adds a little zesty kick to cut through the creaminess of the dish. Here is a recipe by Love & Lemons.

Lil’ sips 📆

For Luxembourg peeps, there are a number of tastings coming up! Be sure to tell them Deborah from Third Place Wine sent you 😉 

10 Nov @ 16:00 - 21:00 & 11 Nov @ 10:00 - 18:00: Salons des vins, wines from southern Italy, some producers will be present. €15. More info & registration at Vinissimo.

11 Nov @ 10:00 - 18:00: Walking Burgundy tasting, focusing on 2021 although vintages will go back to 2014. €10. More info & registration at Caves Wengler.

22 Nov @ 18:30: ApĂ©ro with Elio Ottin, tasting Petite-Arvine with Fontina d’Alpage. €25. More info & registration at In Vino Gildas.

23 Nov @ 19:30: Evening with Jean-Marc SĂ©lĂšque, 4 Champagnes and their pairs. €180. More info & registration by emailing FlĂ»te Alors! [email protected].

9 Dec @ 18:00: TPW Flight Club featuring Israeli white wines. Food will be served. Minimum donation is €100 and 100% of proceeds will go to support non-profit efforts in Israel. For more info and to register, see the events page.

Outside of Luxembourg? Want to promote your event? Email [email protected] with subject: “Lil’ sips”

Boozy meme đŸ·

Wine meme that says: If you eat today, thank a farmer. If it's on your table, thank a trucker. If you now know what carbonic maceration is but didn't ask, thank a sommelier.

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